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As you know, there are two options for focusing – auto focus and manual focus. When shooting macro, the depth of field is too shallow, so focusing must be very accurate, that’s why you can’t rely on auto focus. Therefore, there are two ways for manual focusing – by rotating the focusing ring of the lens or by moving the camera back and forth until you position the focusing plane where you want it to be. The most common practice is to first set the magnification by rotating the focusing ring and then focus by moving the camera. However, when shooting at high magnifications, the depth of field is often measured in fractions of a millimeter and sometimes even holding the camera stable enough for focusing isn’t that easy. For this purpose, you have to assume a pose that  is as stable as possible (with legs and hands close to your body). Fortunately, most of your models will be on the ground or on the low bushes, so you could easily sit or even lay, ensuring maximum stability. After setting down, you have to find your subject in the viewfinder (sounds easy, but with high magnifications it isn’t), hold your breath (I’m serious) and start trying to position the focusing plane so that an optimum part of your subject is on focus. When shooting bugs, this is usually the eyes. The benefit of handholding the camera is mobility and ease of change of framing and point of view. When your models are busy doing something, this is the only way to shoot them. In case they’re not moving, because they’re asleep or frostbitten (early in the morning, for example), using a tripod could be far more convenient. For this purpose you’ll have to get a cable release and a macro focusing rail, allowing you to fine-focus by moving the camera back and forth. This is also the best way to take shots for subsequent focus stacking.

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